Sustainability strikes Spain where COP25 is now taking place in Madrid and the first sustainable global fashion event were organised by Moda Sostenible Barcelona (Barcelona Sustainable Fashion Association) end of November in Barcelona. After attending Rebarcelona summit happening in the new disseny hub, we wanted to share the best of it and to translate how Spain is positioning towards sustainability ?
Through summits like Rebarcelona & Cop 25, Spain is now in the eye of sustainability storm and we wonder how to slide from a romantic approach to a more sustainable business solution ?
As Mme Marie Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability Officer and Head of International Institutional Affairs of the french luxury group Kering, opened the summit and declared :
"We can't act alone" & she also mentioned Mr François- Henri Pinault CEO of Kering motto " No purpose against profit". She, then clarified that their main purposes were sustainable sourcing, circularity and open sourced informations thanks to their upcycling pilot project & elearning solutions.
DATA & DIGITS
Here some clear data and digits shared by Mrs Mar Isla, director of the Chair of Circular Economy and Sustainability, TecnoCampus Mataró-Maresme at Barcelona University, regarding the industry :
B. Every second 1 garbage truck of clothing is landfill
F.12,5% of fashon industry is taking concrete action toward circular business (Ecoalf, Mara Hoffman, Patagonia, inditex, Mango)
According to her, this is absolutly vital to give the industry a break and to focus on circularity !
Mar Isla presentation during Rebarcelona!
NEW CHALLENGES & SOCIAL INDICATORS
The very first new challenge that consummers are adressing to the industry is the change of relashionship to ownership and the hard need of transparency as a new currency. Those pull factors also lead to a strong relashionship to protest, such as the rallying that Fashion Revolution, Anti Fashion Project or Extension Rebellion shown in the past few months. Thus, despite a growth addiction, all those facts create an unvoidable transfer into garment business and consumption.
Sara K Arnold Présentation during Re barcelona summit in nov 2019
TECH & SOLUTIONS
Among the innovations we can notice a very prolofic window for sourcing and how it's evolving: at weaving, at dying or at laundry steps. For instance, Biotechnologies and Techwear are comitted to sustainabilty towards start ups and organisations which are ready to rethink supply chain and distribution.
An example of wearable tech is the spanish company Noumena which brings and connects tech solutions to the industry: 3D printing yarns, stabilising biosourcing or provinding technologies & robotics for connected garments...
"We explore innovative approaches for textiles and fashion, blending codes, biology, programmable materials into a new data-driven workflow. We envision sustainable textile applications for our bodies and habitats."
Their motto is Material + Tech + Education, that's why supported by Fira Barcelona and by the design school IED Barcelona, they cocreated the design competition Reshape , promoting research, design and production of digital ideas. This year, first prize for wearable technologie went to the Taiwanese designer Wei Chieh Shih : "by exploiting UV laser projection and fabric pre-coated with photosensitive ink (cyanotype), it creates permanent image on textiles."
Wei Chieh Shih's work for Reshape competition 2019.
As an ethical model we also can underline the implication of Ellen Mac Artur foundation with their circular design lab and the projects they conduct around circular economy presented at Rebarcelona by Marylin Martinez, Senior Research Analyst in charge of Make Fashion Circular.
Among B to C solutions their is recycled sourcing brand like the spanich one Ecoalf and their famous #thereisnoplanetB collections, collective conscious luxury online & retail concept store like Collective Mayet or circular economy pier to pier platform selling second hand such as Thred up, the real real or the renting platforms such as Ycloset in China or rent the runaway in US and the higher studio in UK.
De facto Spain is developping a parallel industry to fast fashion, implementing start up technologies, printing or laundry solutions in their supply chain. The country is also expanding education and B to B events dedicated to sustainability to catch up the performence of other countries.
If fashion industry is ready to involve into positives changes ( Fashion pact, CSR policies into fast fashion, sustainanble and circularity business), it's also to be treated cautionsly to avoid a green washing system of infinite possible growth !
Future will be regenerative or won't be !