Last week in Paris took place S.I.L (salon international de la lingerie ) and Interfilliere's shows, both organised by Eurovet. This year's Motto was fiercely written to the main gate Fall in love with yourself, therefore the business message behind is how "to empower women through lingerie uniqueness" as Jos Berry from Concept Paris exposed during the fair. Indeed, after last #metoo move, trend is going further embracing a very positive action around the bodies. It's like if feminism were starting a new sociocultural signal toward womanhood, a slow poetry from body positive to body activism.
The four trends shown on Discovery forum sounded like a love letter to the body: benevolent and empathic. This was maybe inspired by the beautiful example of Charli Howard, the British curvy model who wrote a letter to herself in the latest campaign of Agent Provocateur.
Indeed, she decided to counteract the "you're fat " comment she received from a model agency by creating #Imallwoman move and being one of the figurehead of sexiness now...
They all show the strong support to the real & imperfect body as the new cool : all sizes, all colours, all morphologies... A free body where lingerie can act as a beauty accessory. This phenomenon is especially strengthen with Instagram's no filter trend as well as fun and creative feminist collectives such as Les nanas d' Paname. Being abreast with this dynamic, all the new brands and edgy ad's campaign offer a good variety of interpretations. Here are some examples of what struck us recently :
ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN :
Chantelle and its new campaign for CL studio or Agent Provocateur, as well as a new brands like Breakfast club Paris and Marie Yat... Those are taking risks exposing no retouch pictures where we see real bodies with tan & stretch marks and different curves and shapes.
Bibiche Paris which offers a simple & modern second skin mesh lingerie with the possibility of a nice custom made embroidery on the top.
Lonely, working on the concept of cross generation and life moments, from maternity to silver generation enjoyment. It offers a wild range of bras for diverse uses : maternity, soft to +size cups.
Savage X Fenty, Rihanna's lingerie brand broadcasted every where and for whom Vanessa Friedman wrote in the New York time "Now that the elite fashion world is in disarray, splintered by the rise of the street, direct communication and a growing awareness of its lack of diversity, there is little wonder that LVMH would see in Rihanna a potential way forward."
Nubian skin, the american brand which is playing with the tan and darkest color skins, deploying a very subtle color range.
From the top left to the bottom right : Bibiche Paris x2 ; Moon and Junes ; Lonely ; Savage x Fenty; Nubian Skin.
Here it's all about affirming and showing to stop hiding !
Les petit saints, a mono product brand fully dedicated to small size breast bralette and thus despite the shapes of the body because some curvy women also have small boobs.
Dessú and Anais Albar in their collaboration came out with "The Venus", this beautiful brief showing a pretty embroidery which recalls menstruations.
Stella Mc Cartney designed a double mastectomy bra, it's a post surgery product in a sweet pea pink tone sheer floral lace featuring a modern bralette shape.
Henriette H using the wording trend to affirm cash phrases like the embroidered bra " look me in the eyes"
Innovation is also serving brands giving tools to customisation and to a maximum of adaptation, such as with the brand Endeer. The french start up begun its project with a technology of tailored made wire and then understood the big potential of it in providing a finished product. They knew there could be a niche market stakeholder in the lingerie field and enjoyed it in a big communication and crowdfunding campaign. According to them " breast has shapes no sizes ". They are going to launch the first products during 2019.
The best is yet to come with all the new technologies and the tailor made trend to explore more and more, giving women the simple empowerment they are looking for from head to toes.
More fairs are coming, as Eurovet is also behind Curve in Las Vegas, which is next week, as well as the shows in Hong Kong in March Shanghai in October.
Fore more infos : Podcast from SIL/Interfilliere Jan 19