A word of advice, before reading this article, immerse yourself in The cool girls 1 , the brands that dust off the world of French lingerie.
2020 during the great lockdown. I'm splitting my daily life in between learning a zero-waste life #teamchillenges , a cream puff tutorial to become the next Cyril.le Lignac and an emotional quotient test to understand if remote work is relaxing or is double locking.
Once in while, I'm wearing back my brand hunting outfit looking for the best sustainable brands, and with pleasure I'm sharing here my selection of Cool girls 2, the best lingerie brands fighting for inclusivity ! Confinement taught us to reduce and at the end, we know that supporting small brands is more than ever essential. Beyond the sustainable brand's social and ecological commitments, the notion of inclusiveness is also key for Thegoodgoods and we includ it in the definition "ethics". So, we prepared a selection of exemplary lingerie brands in inlcusivity.
Let’s start by looking at the benevolent, quasi-therapeutic meaning of the word "incorporate " in fashion: taking into account all skin colors, all body types and all genders when designing a garment and exibiting it in the media. I would like to talk about three brands that think inclusiveness as a road to self-enhancement, in the redefinition of seduction's and tailor-made concepts, not as a marketing argument. These women share their vision of liberated feminism and in a sisterhood spirit. Their customers are not considered as to feminin-influencers, but as rebellious muses (#rebellmuses).
Illustration by Camilla Rosa
"It's in story more than in certification that will give value to the process, because it spreads dreams, sense of belonging and sharing." Pascal Gautrand
from Made in Town and initiator of the beautiful exhibitions "The lace review"
Before starting our Bra Revolution, let's make a short review: we know that 80% of workers in textile factories are women ; that 80% of individuals (USA | FR | ALL | IT) declare that they systematically look at the label before purchasing sustainable clothing (podcast Le Sapping with Thomas Delattre); and that in Europe the priority for a responsible fashion purchase is for 42% environmental protection, for 28% the raw material and for 17% the manufacturing conditions .
These 3 lingerie designers certainly defend strong values through their collection's manufacturing, but also focus their entrepreneurial intention on a precise conception of inclusion, that they wish to pass and to embody within their brand. They all have in common the desire to get women out of "The complex machine" in a therapeutic approach and above all, to offer them to reveal the clandestine sides of their personality, their style and all those signs of distinction that make them unique and universal women.
"Listen to women and understand their experiences."
Behind this pretty brand, hides the delicate Delphine Gotti, an ex member of a RTW purchasing team. This lingerie enthusiast changed her carreer in 2018 by taking pattern making lessons. Then, she launched out thank to a crowdfunding campaign which allowed her to realize her dream of lingerie therapy! At Maison Finou, they listen to and they work out lingerie and
Photo : Diane Barbier
swimsuit in half measures, which respects the morphology, the customer moment of life and culture of the client. All the collections are realised with European materials: French silk and lace from the dead stock of large houses or Italian and German recycled materials... And made in France, in her Parisian's workshop. You can make an appointment to customise a piece during pregnancy, for a wedding, to enhance a disability or just to create a unique piece for pleasure. Maison Finou is also a line of velvet or silk panties, delicately wrapped and then embroidered by the hand of Anaïs from of "une fille et du fils" and available in Paris at Maison Plouf, the collaborative and instagrammable space of the collective named The Patronage! Another participative aspect of this brand is its ability to team up to magnify women, as during the wedding dress catwalk co-organized with Cécile Labrunie with whom she shares the same philosophy. Then, lingerie therapy works by magic!
"A high-end personalized product that respects the intimate and the essence of self-esteem."
Lou Salomé Carillo, from Maison Louve (House of the wolves) is such a cool girl that we already talked about her in the article Cool girls 1. To go further in her approach of supporting her "wolves", each month a muse is chosen among the customers. In addition, just like her collections, the muses are photographed by Emilie Pradier aka Lilieyes, who in her approach of "phototherapy",is highlighting the hidden part of each of these women, to support their singular beauty and if necessary to help them in the reappropriation of their body. For the collection "Nouvelle Vague", this is the actress Marion Seclin who stroke the pose and revealed both of the vibrant audacity and the softness that you can feel when you secretly wear Maison Louve! If the collections of Maison Louve seem straight out of a novel by Clarissa Pinkola Estés, it is undoubtedly thanks to the combined talents of this women's adventure...
" Our individuality fuels our raison d'être ... The underargument exists to remind us to always favor authenticity and to accomplish this raison d'être."
Last January at the lingerie show in Paris, where she exhibited her latest collection, I had the chance to meet Maïna Cissé, the founder & designer of The underargument. I must say that there are only few brands that tick as many boxes! The product is contemporary and sexy, raw materials are chosen to be sustainable, packaging is pragnatic and suitable, communication is impactful and inclusive, production shows high quality standards and participates in local & social redistribution. I'm in love with it, in case it's not clear yet !
Based in London, where Maïna still works in marketing, she debates around lingerie, she stresses the importance of defending ideas and power of individuality, as long as it is desired and accepted. Inhabited by her project, she claims her message, printed on a satin ribbon which is her label, subtly hidden inside her pantie's and bra's collections. The underwear are in organic cotton, lace and embroidery, all manufactured in Europe and OekoTex certified! In addition, having African origins, she chose Madagascar as country of manufacturing. (The factory is also on the list of my next audits there. We are investing in #goodgoodfamily) Because this option allows to support the economy of a country in the South where textile production has a high added value. Moreover, the factory is a social enterprise that created Sekool, a local humanitarian organization responsible for the education of poor children in the town where the factory is located. The message does not stop there, since the ad campaigns are prepared according to the idea of "Anti-casting." To apply, the model sends words, a letter, a personal story that will support the history of the collection, no photos, no measurements! For Maïna, diversity is essential, she wishes to share the authentic stories of her community, then she meets these women only on the day of the casting! Daring isn't ?
In summary, since we stay at home, why not supporting the convictions of fashion and the sustainability in couple relashionship through a shopping breakdown ?
Editor's note: On a less tender but no less important note, thinking about inclusive confinement is also thinking about those who unfortunately cannot express